Updated: 3 days ago
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Today I finally got around to booking a surfing lesson. I was recommended a native Hawaiian ex-pro surfer by a life guard. He was quite strict, and didn't want any questions, just for you to do as he tells you! Me keeping my gob shut for an hour was a challenge!
First he takes you through some basics on the beach, you feel a bit of a dick doing the stances on a crowded beach, but it wasn't too painful. More than I can say for my bum. On my second run I jumped off the board in a bombing position right onto the reef, so I've a really sore left bum bone tonight. I hope it doesn't last too long as I was planning on some mountain bike riding soon.
So the coach takes you out into the ocean, I asked that it be where I can still touch the ground with my feet, as I'm not a confident swimmer, which he did. He pushes you into each wave, and immediately you need to get up, which I managed on all seven of my runs.
Watching the footage back, I can see I need to relax, and to get more central on the board, and balance better using my knees. But for a first try I was happy. It's much more tiring than it looks, as the further you surf away, the more paddling you need to do to get back to the coach. By seven runs my arms were dead, so I called it day.
I'm so stoked to have finally done it, it really is worth a try if you've ever fancied doing it. Do it. Now. There is no second season!