As a fellow mature adult beginner surfer living hours from the ocean, I understand the unique challenges that come with learning to surf later in life, especially if you're financially challenged. This article is dedicated to sharing practical tips for getting organized and streamlining your journey into the world of surfing no matter how far from the beach we may be!
Living several hours away from the coast requires quite a bit of planning for a weekend surfing trip. Especially as a full-time worker, you need to juggle numerous considerations: booking a lesson or arranging board hire , securing accommodation in advance, and keeping an eye on the weather and surf conditions as the day approaches. For instance, right now there's a Category 2 cyclone hitting the coast where I surf—definitely not the ideal time for a beginner to hit the waves!
On top of that, as a senior, ensuring you have enough energy after a hard week at work can be a challenge. Balancing work, life, and the excitement of surfing requires a strategic approach to make the most of your weekends living that dream!
Additional tip: Attend to your bikini line if you're planning to wear high leg biking or spring suit!!
Getting organised
Have Lessons
Take as many lessons as you can afford.
If your instructor doesn't understand your needs, don't hesitate to switch. Even experienced and perhaps mature instructors themselves, they might not fully grasp the challenges of learning to surf as a senior.
Buy Your Own Board and have lessons on your own board
Before diving in, it's essential to research the different types of surfing and different types of board that are your options.
Decide what kind of surfer you aspire to be.
Seek recommendations from your instructor on the type of board that will help you achieve that goal. Unless you're exceptionally talented, your instructor will likely recommend a 9-foot-long, extra-wide board, or similar, which is perfectly fine if you're happy with that. However, if you'd prefer a long narrow board or a shorter, narrower one, consider hiring one to test if you have the potential to ride it.
If you decide to go against your instructor's recommendations and feel some bitterness from them because of it, prove to them that you can ride the board successfully.
If, as I have experienced, they do everything to ensure you fail to ride your new board, change instructor. I now have a great instructor who is happy for me to ride my own board during lessons, although I think he was sceptical at first.
If your instructor doesn't allow you to use your own board without a good reason, consider changing instructors.
Think about how you'll transport the board to the ocean. If you plan to carry it on your car roof, research roof racks and board mountings. Also, invest in a carry case to protect your board.
Remember you will need room to store your board at home in a cool, shaded area, away from direct sunlight. Setting it up on cushions is a great way to keep it safe while also allowing you to practice your pop-up whenever you want. The slight instability of the cushions mimics the instability of the ocean, giving you a more realistic practice experience.
Keep getting lessons, practice in your own time what you have learnt, then have another lesson!
Learn about the ocean
Download an app like Surfline and learn how to use it. Before your lessons, check the app and compare its predictions with the actual conditions. Take note of when the app's ratings match your preferred experience. For example, if Surfline rates your favourite beach as "Poor" but you find it suitable, remember that it might be poor for advanced surfers but perfect for you.
Learn about tides, currents, and swells.
Understand how to spot a rip current and what to do if you get caught in one.
Observe the wave patterns and note which types of waves your instructor selects for you.
Surf at the same spots where you take your lessons. This saves you time on research, ensures you know what to expect, and provides a relatively safe environment.
Practice at Home
You might find it helpful to mark the centre of balance on your board. To do this, sit on it in flat water and find the spot where it's balanced and steady. Use a marker pen to draw a line across the board at that point. This will indicate where the bottom of your ribcage should be when paddling and where your front foot should be during the initial get-up.
At home, practice your pop-up as often as you can. Once you can do it in regular clothes, try practicing with your wetsuit on (or whatever is your normal surf gear) and with wax on the board. You'll be surprised at how much more challenging it can be with wax and a wetsuit.
If you can't and never will be able to pop-up quickly due to mobility problems, don't worry, getting up your way is OK, perhaps going onto your knees first is your way. It may hold your progress back, but as long as you are enjoying your surfing that's all that matters.
Be sure to do a short warm up before practicing your pop-up
Don't forget to practice your paddling technique as well.
Do some strength exercises such as calisthenics or weights that improve the ease in whichever way you get up.
Practice balance exercises.
Observe where your feet land after your pop-up. Can you consistently land in the right spot without looking?
Make a Packing List
Create a packing list for your trips to the coast, especially if you live many hours away.
Fit a camera to your surfboard
If you can afford it, attach a camera to your board and record your sessions. It's incredibly useful for analysing what you're doing right and identifying areas for improvement.
If you're are struggling on a particular day, take time to watch your footage to see what is going on.
Video of how I attached my camera mount to my softboard https://youtu.be/9dSZNPvG2Dc
Corrective Eyewear and Sun Protection
Ensure you have appropriate corrective eyewear if needed.
Protect your eyes from the sun.
A good option if you need correction are prescription wraparound sports sunglasses. Add a cord to each arm that tightens around the back of your head to prevent losing them.
Glasses cord https://amzn.to/46CLQM3
If you drive to the beach you’ll need somewhere to stow your car key
Some wetsuits and boardshorts have key pockets, which is a good option if your key is waterproof and you're confident it will stay secure.
You can get a car key cut that only opens the doors and stow it in a magnetic key case under your vehicle while you're in the ocean. Just remember where you placed it!
Check no one is watching when you hide your key, thieves are known to prey on surf spots, as they do on some beaches.
Another option is to use a lockable combination key box that you can hang on your car.
Magnetic key case https://amzn.to/4i1YYiW
Buy Some Wax
Even if you have a softboard with a textured top and the manufacturer claims it doesn't need waxing, you will likely still need to wax it. You'll know this if you are continually slip sliding around on your board.
Make sure to buy the correct type of wax for the climate, water temperature, and your type of board.
A cheap travel soapbox is a great way to store your wax.
Soap box https://amzn.to/3QFX4IL
Protection
You'll likely need sun screen, even if you're wearing a full wetsuit, as your exposed areas will still need shielding from the sun.
Use a reef-friendly, water-resistant sunscreen.
Get a proper surf hat with under-chin strap, such as a bucket hat or a cap.
If surfing in cold waters you may also need bootees, gloves and a hood
You may want to invest in a Gath type helmet and/or booties or reef shoes, for reef breaks or rocky shores.
Be sure to get booties or shoes that won't hold water, an extra half kilo of weight on each foot can slow down your pop-up considerably.
You may want to protect your ears from gathering sand in them, surfers ear plugs are available
Little Urchin tinted zinc oxide sunscreen is great for your face, lips, hands, neck, and throat. https://amzn.to/4fBc99g
You can use SPF gloves to protect your hands https://amzn.to/4ioJs09
Beach security
If you're parking nearby to your surf spot, consider leaving valuables in the car to avoid the hassle of keeping an eye on them. This way, you can relax and enjoy your time surfing without any worries.
If you have to take valuables onto the beach take a large umbrella or the like too, you can see it from the ocean and easier keep an eye on your things with the bonus that it will stop you drifting down the beach.
Damage to your equipment
When you return from a surfing trip, inspect your board, leash, fins, and camera mount for any damage.
If you didn't rinse your wetsuit and board off at the beach, make sure to do so when you get home. It's important not to leave salt water on these items.
Some beaches have outdoor washdown showers, use these when you can or take some water with you to washdown your gear.
Get a surf buddy
For safety reasons, it's wise to surf with at least one other person.
If you don't have a friend who surfs, you could ask on a surfing Facebook page if anyone would like to team up.
If you prefer to surf alone, consider wearing a helmet, especially if there is no one else around. Even a softboard can hit you hard enough to knock you out.
Surfing where there are life savers on duty is a good idea, if they are, stop by to say hello and check that surfing in that area is OK.
Wildlife
If your area is prone to shark activity and you can only surf there, consider investing in a shark deterrent like Sharkbanz or Shark Eyes. While their effectiveness isn't guaranteed, they might provide some peace of mind if you can afford them.
Keep in mind that shark activity tends to increase at dawn and dusk, which is often when the surf is best.
If you're the only person out, think twice before heading into the water.
Check for Events
Before making plans, make sure to check the websites of any surf, kayak, paddleboard or boat clubs near your intended destination. Arriving at a break only to discover it's kayak race day can be a real downer!
On the day of a surfing session
Get your board ready
Check your board, and ensure your leash, fins, and any camera fittings are properly secured.
Wax your board. As you gain experience, you'll notice where you tend to slide off. Apply wax to those areas as needed.
Get yourself ready
Remember, you'll be lying on your stomach for extended periods while paddling and you’ll be needing to quickly get into the cobra position and pop-up. To aid flexibility and mobility during your pop-up: Take a BRP (Before Ride Poo) before getting your board from the car and putting your gear on.
Unless you have a medical condition, try to limit your eating to just a light snack beforehand, but enough to keep up your energy levels.
Hydrate yourself well before heading out into the ocean.
Put on your wetsuit, eye protection and hat, perhaps helmet, bootees and gloves too
Zip up your wetsuit if you're wearing one, and ensure the zipper is securely fastened to prevent it from coming undone. Surfing with a couple of kilos of additional weight in your wetsuit can make it more difficult.
Wardrobe issues can be very distracting, so make sure you're comfortable in what you're wearing and that you won't have to worry about any accidental exposure!
Apply sunscreen to exposed areas
Check relevant apps and notice boards for any unexpected issues at your chosen spot, such as shark sightings, jellyfish, or other hazards.
Before heading onto the beach, take a moment to review your surfing progress and set specific goals for what you want to practice today.
On the beach
Head onto the beach and assess the ocean conditions to ensure they are safe.
If you're alone, perhaps have a chat with life savers or others on the beach so someone knows you are there.
Observe where others are catching waves and identify the best spots for surfing.
Have a chat with other surfers, they may be able to pass on some invaluable information.
Look for patterns in the waves that you can take advantage of.
While still on the beach, do a five-minute exercise routine to warm up your head and neck, arms, shoulders, torso, hips, legs, ankles, and feet. Also, practice some pop-ups.
Put your leash on, ensuring it faces to the right if it's on your right leg, and to the left if it's on your left leg. Secure it tightly. A loose leash can be distracting and may get tangled, so positioning it sideways helps minimize this issue.
Never feel embarrassed or unworthy of surfing; everyone is practicing something. Ride that board like the legend you are!
Now, get out into the ocean and savour every moment—the good, the bad, and the ugly! We all have bad days, but even then, you should come out of the water with a big, beaming smile.
I learned to do a lot as an older adult: mountain bike, skateboard, surf, XC ski. All these disciplines have their merits but by far, surfing has been the most enjoyable and least painful!!
Mega useful list. Must remember that BRP!